Monday, 20 October 2014

Delhi's Madrasis


   Till about the early sixties, New Delhi was just a central government city, except for a few corporate offices along Ramlila Maidan from Delhi Gate to Ajmeri Gate, a stretch of about a mile and half long road called Asaf Ali Road, and some shops big and small in Connaught Place and Karol Bagh. The inhabitants of the city were mostly government servants living in government quarters located within in a circle of about two miles radius from Gole Market. The high ranking Government servants like Secretaries, Joint Secretaries etc.  Lived in aristocratic bungalows in Lodi Estate, Queen Mary’s Road, Aurangazeb Road, Ashoka Road etc. while lesser rank officers like superintendents etc.  lived in smaller bungalows  on Talkatora Road, Mahadeo Road, Baird Road etc.   Low ranked officials like Assistants and Stenographers lived in smaller quarters consisting of an open veranda in the front, a small front room, one or two bed rooms, a store room and kitchen. The latrine in most quarters was away from the living rooms and kitchen at the end of a court yard at the rear side.

    The quarters were in blocks called “Squares” named after British monarchs and  viceroys  like Edward Square, Hastings Square, Cornwallis Square, etc. with an occasional Indian name like Ganesh Place, Ranjit Place. The difference between a Square and a Place lay in their shape; the Sqaure had four rows of quarters, one each on its four sides while the Place had quarters only on three sides, the fourth side being the boundary road, like Reading Road (now renamed as Mandir Marg). What intrigued us as children was that the squares were mostly rectangular , two long parallel rows of quarters  on two opposite sides and two short  parallel rows on the other two opposite sides

     In this great city there lived the “Madrasis”- a collective noun invented by the North Indians for all people who came from the south of the Vindhyas. Almost all of them were government servants with some essential service providers like school and music teachers, vadhyars (religious pundits0 and cooks. With many Subramanians and Ganesans, distinction was made either with reference to the Ministry where they worked or in the Square where they lived, like Finance Subramanian, Defence Ganesan or Wilson Square Ramasubban and Lawrence Square Sivaramakrishnan. If two Sethuramans were in the same Finance ministry, then the distinction was based on the Wing/ department, such as Expenditure Sethuraman versus Controller of Capital Sethuraman.  Another distinctive clue was their pass time or leisure activities like Bhajana Samaj Krishnan or Karnataka Sangeetha Sabha Ramamurthy and these persons had high titles like Additional Secretary, Joint Secretary Etc. in their respective organisations... And in addition, there were also nick names given and recognised by the whole community like Bonda Srinivasan, Typhoid Krishnamurthy, and Driver Devarajan and so on.

    When it came to their career in government, all Madrasis earned the unenviable reputation as honest, sincere, hard- working, efficient and with absolute integrity. The price that was paid for such appreciation of work was the neglect of leisure time happiness on holidays with family and friends. Many of them would have spent decades living in Delhi but not had had time to v see the Kutb Minar, the  Red Fort,  Purana Kila and other historical monuments which abound in Delhi .Their Annual Confidential Reports grading them as “Outstanding” were confidentially and individually leaked to them by their superior officers. They would then confidentially tell their wives! There was this joke about a Madrasi junior officer once getting reported by his senior Punjabi officer that he (the Madrasi) often “slept in office” - a remark considered as adverse in his annual confidential report. When he remonstrated to the senior officer about this, the latter told him that he wanted to highlight the fact that on several days the Madrasi officer had worked very late hours in the office almost till the early hours of the next morning and was thus compelled to sleep in the office itself in the absence of a bus to go home at that hour. ! Similarly another Madrasi officer’s work was graded as “far from satisfactory” by his senior Bengali officer. He later explained saying that the work of the junior was exceptionally good and the grading category “satisfactory” did not adequately describe the quality of work which was several notches high!!

     The institutions that united them were The South India Club, The Madrasi  School, The Karnatak Sangeetha Sabha, The Vaishnava Siddhantha Sabbha, The Saturday Bhajana Sabhas, The Navaratri Golus and of course the Irwin Road Pilliar  Koil and the adjacent Hanuman Mandir and the Baird Road Kali Koil. Apart from mutual family visits, inter family communication was through the Tamil Vadhyar group to which the families belonged when a Sastrigal of that group came to announce the important religious events of the month and collect monthly subscription. Integration with other communities was next to nothing for most of the Madrasis although they collectively enjoyed the confidence of the Punjabi grocers, clothiers and other shopkeepers who gave them credit facility liberally without a question The Madrasis however privately made fun of the Punjabis’ English pronunciation like    meyerment for measurement, lier for lawyer as well as bad grammar like “Mehra don’t even Know English”.   Little did they know as to how many times the Punjabi traders took advantage of the Madrasis ‘confusion between “Dhed” (one and a half) and “Adhai” (two and a half).

    Among the uniting institutions mentioned above, the Madrasi School occupied a predominant position as it was here that the children of all Madrasis irrespective of the status of the parents, whether a Joint Secretary or an Upper Division Clerk, or the child of a Sastrigal or a cook, came for studies. Those were days of no dress code or uniforms and yet all children studied in an environment of equality and fraternity .The teachers,  both male and female, were exceptionally devoted to their profession, took  avuncular interest in each student  and were  kind hearted . Till the fifties there was only one school at Reading Road. Even when there was no bar for students from other regions or linguistic groups for admission, the Madrasi School remained exclusively a Tamil school. Ironically, when it became a multi branch Tamil school in its name in the sixties, called The Delhi Tamil Education Association School (DTEA), it has now both students and teachers form other parts of the country.
  
     The Madrasis were a powerful group in the Central Secretariat. Their network was strongly knit and mutually helpful. Any special treatment or facility in AIIMS, Safdarjung and other government hospitals were arranged by the Madrasi Jt. Secretary, in Health Ministry, while his counter- part in Civil Supplies Department took care of additional allotment of sugar and maida for weddings. Acquiring of land and construction of the many temples in the sixties and seventies in New Delhi was mainly because of the initiative and strength of this group which at one time had the Hon’ble President of India as Patron. . Even the introduction of Leave Travel Concession for visiting home towns by Central Government Servants and their families was said to be the brainchild of some Madrasis in the Home and Finance Ministries. They quietly introduced the main condition that the home town should be at least 400 kms away from Headquarters so as to benefit the South Indian employees!   Not only did the Northerners feel  jealous, the Punjabi booking clerk oh the Northern Railway felt further injured as he had to book the onward journey to a home town like Kattumannarkovil  by the shortest route and had no clue as to which of the two routes from Madras Egmore, the chord line or the  main line, was shorter. 


     Most of these Madrasis have retired by now.  Many continue to live in Delhi in DDA and other housing colonies in the faraway Dhwarka and Mayur Vihar and their post- retirement activities and interest are confined to within these areas mainly centring the local temple.  Some of their sons and daughters, the next generation Delhi’s Madrasis, took the Madrasi School – St. Stephen’s College route to qualify for induction into the All India Services and other Allied Services while others have become doctors, engineers, lawyers and accountants. The Old Students   Association of DTEA Schools with branches in Chennai and Bangalore is their social network apart from Facebook.

41 comments:

  1. Very interesting & informative article on Delhi's Madrasis.
    Well narrated. Enjoyed reading it every bit.
    Congrats!
    Anbudan,
    RRG

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  2. Excellent, Raman…Fit for wider publication.
    BTW, any student of Projective Geometry will easily be able to explain how a square can become a rectangle or even a circle!... Your anecdote about “ Slept in the office” finally reveals to me why they ‘had to’ get rid of English from Govt. noting’s in Delhi !!
    A sequel is due….Recommended title: “ Delhi’s Madrasis - then and now ”

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  3. Thanks. Will try to work on the suggestion for the sequel

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  4. I could relate to this post as my uncle lived in one of those squares by the side of Barakhamba road and my father-in-law lived in Irwin road in 50s and 60s.I had seen those days only cycles on the roads and a few tongas.There was nothing beyond Karolbagh in early 50s.Some old pictures would have embellished the post.
    Please make provision for subscribing to the blog by mail and also to follow through blog list.

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  5. Enjoyed reading, brought back memories of the childhood years. My father was part of the government service from early 60's and we children studied at madrasi school.

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  6. So well written. Was in the flash back mode.

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  7. Very well narrated. In fact, I fondly remember my good old golden days in Havelock Square at Kali Bari Marg during the initial days of my life in Delhi.

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  8. Excellent throwback. I could recall my childhood days around lodi estate and mature road,goleta market etc. Those days have gone by never to return. Enjoyed reading

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  9. Good old days and Delhi used to be one of the best cities then what with the limitted crowd fantastic food and healthy climate.Belonging to those era having worked and retired from govt service.But now an overcrowded polluted and noisy city,and the madrasi crowd got dwindled considerably.

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  10. Very well compiled. 'Reading Road'...hmmm had almost forgotten, DTEA used to be MEA (ofrse maybe thats why name was changed).

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  11. Very well compiled. 'Reading Road'...hmmm had almost forgotten, DTEA used to be MEA (ofrse maybe thats why name was changed).

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  12. Very well compiled. 'Reading Road'...hmmm had almost forgotten, DTEA used to be MEA (ofrse maybe thats why name was changed).

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  13. Enjoyed reading so much and absolutely true.Central Govt had so many South Indian staff which has come down heavily in recent times.It is a pleasure to read such article which remnisces of good olden days.

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  14. Shri A.V. Raman,
    Thank you for wonderful post. It brought us back lot of good memories. Also my father wanted to know if are same Raman from Railway Board? It seems he has worked with you on at Railyway Board.If yes please send me your contact number as I father would like to speak with you. Regards

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    Replies
    1. You may send your contact # to balchander@gmail.com
      Thank you

      Delete
  15. Superb reminiscing and interesting story-telling that is phenomenally nostalgic. Keep them coming, Honourable "Blog Raman". Best wishes. U.R.Bhat

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  16. Very interesting reading. Though not a Madrasi, I could imagine how power groups would have worked for establishing communities in Delhi. Congrats for being simply candid

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  17. Madrassi School became Delhi Tamil Education Association when DMK came to power in TN and they insisted the name change for grants from TN Govt. The Alumni website is "dtea-alumni.org".
    The FB page is " Dtea Alumni Trust". All are requested to enroll as the School will be Celebrating its Centenary Year in 2023.

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  18. Wonderful article. Since I grew up there during that time it was so nostalgic to read this. Brought back so many memories of Madrasi school, Reading road, Baird road etc and ofcourse the squares. We lived in Havelock square for a long time!😀. Thank you Mr.Raman for reviving the memories!

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  19. That explains that the richest Co in India and the owner is ranked high in Forbes list main contact man in Delhi was a Madrasi who tracked all licences/ files plus movement of top Ministers to Bombay. He had personal contacts with all the Madrasi officers in the Govt from the lowest to the highest including Madrasi Ministers

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  20. Thanks Raman for the beautiful article. I can recall every fact listed by you. It is as if I relived my child hood as We lived in Lake Square and Dalhousie Square before our family moved to Bangla Sahib Lane opposite to Gurudwara. I want to add Madras Cafe as one of the spots where bachelors frequented.

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  21. Ajmal khan Road was having make shift shops of wooden structures which used to be controlled by madrasis from where madrasi residents of private companies and others who were not allotted quarters, used to purchase south indian products. Many eating places called mess were operated by mostly palakkad brahmins for the bachelors. Lodging arrangements were also provided. Prominent amoun them are Vaidyanathan mess Kanpur mess. Kanpur mess was called kalra mess though hundreds of bachelors ate there. Vaidyanathan mess was famous for idli sambar on Sundays. People apart from bachelors thronged for this stuff. If you are late you missed it

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  22. Ramanujam mess was very famous for all stuff. Veeramakali store and Sugandha coffee works were very prominent one in Karolbagh. They operated from Krishna market

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  23. Very beautifully narrated. Lived my stay from 1964 to 2000. The subramaniams/natarajans/srinivasans/ramakrushbans/shivasubrahmanyams/vaidyanathans formed the chain in the government. My God, what integrity, loyalty, dedication. The rule book was followed to the T. The corporates employed generally south indians for their PR and liaison. Press Trust of india CANTEEN WAS THE MEETING PLACE for the bureaucracy. Janakpui in 1970 took away the title of Matunga from karolbagh. Thanks Raman for the nostalgic memories...Escorts Srinivasan...

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  24. Thanks for the writer, who vividly presented.Enjoyed reading. Wish he writes more

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  25. Well written, however, all North Delhi Madrasis have been ignored in this article.
    There were numerous Madrasis in North Delhi in Delhi University. Article should indicate that this was the life of a South Delhi Madrasi

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  26. Excellent and enjoyed in reading. Thank you.

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  27. Even at 80 years now ,I cannot forget my 10 years of life at Delhi in the 1960s. We used to be regular at Mahadeva Iyer mess for good meals and tiffin. Every Friday he used to serve small onion sambar with unlimited quantity of potato chips. For a meagrely amount of Rs 35 per month for two daily meals. Most of the Sunday morning ritual is to watch Tamil movies in Regal cinemas. For many hard workers Delhi opened the floodgates for employment. Many of the South Indians attended evening college and took the graduation and few passes IAS as well. The prestigious Yamuna Apartment at Kalkaji is the brain child of South Indians
    Parameswaran’s

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  28. Not to forget Madras store and Madras hotel first double decker bus ran from Connaught place to camp college now named as bhagat singh evening college Hema Malini lived at haig squarethose years from bycycle commuting to central sect was upgraded to 2wheeles tongas were for family ride then patpadis

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  29. Very well articulated One can bring a small book on this

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  30. Excellent article, kindling nostalgia.
    The bachelor life in Karolbagh, and going to watch Tamil movies on Sundays were quite an experience. Working in govt offices mostly with Muktanis and Panjabis, though challenging, was another enjoyable aspecr.

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  31. Stayed at 4/70 WEA as a stopgap arrangement after marriage till family shifted to Delhi. Never felt I am in Delhi with breakfast and evening snacks at Mahadeva Iyer mess and meals at Nataraja Iyer mess. Never missed weekend Tamil movies at Maharashtra Rangayan. 8 number double decker bus and patpati to Madras hotel are still fresh in my memory. Really enjoyed pleasant Delhi weather and life. Very nostalgic to recall them to memory now in the current situation.

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  32. பாடு கஞ்ஜ் (पहाड़गंज ) நம்ப மாமாலாம் காய்கறி வாங்கறயெடம் நம்மவூர் ரங்கநாந்தெரு மாரி 😊.

    Fantastic blog! Brings back the chillness of டெல்லி!

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  33. I lived in 14 Mohabat Khan Road near Rouse Avenue almost exactly half way between the toad connecting Minto Bridge and Harding Bridge and crossing the railways track near Bengali Market, the famous Nathus and Bengali Sweets. These were the Northern Railways. In and around our area, there was Press Quarters , college Lane behind Lady Irwin College close to Bengali Market walk through Babar RoD. There were also couple of tamil Iyers in Bengali Market the Central LEE. In the entire Mohavatt Khan Road there were close to 93 Gole Market squares. The first ever South Indian Restaurant was perhaps the SOUTH INDIA BOARDING HOUSE opp to Super Bazar in New Delhi. Then there was the Regal Cinema where tamil films used to be screened only on Sundays and the booking fleas to be done the previous Sunday. For movies of Shivaji Ganeshan and MGR films there used to be heavy rush. The booking would commence at 8 am and we used to be at the gates by 6.30 am to 7 am. The cost of the ticket at reduced rates was 10 anna later on 60 paise. Nostalgic.

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  34. Reminds me of my first visit to Delhi in 1966. Stayed at Gole Market, Karachi Halwa, tangas and the gole market which served as a round about are fond memories. Then Delhi became home in 1984 and south delhi had extended to vsant kunj.
    Nicely written!

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  35. Mr Raman, very well compiled. Seemed like you were talking about my dad & me, former Mr RV Narasimhan who retired from WHO and yours truly Dr Ramani Narasimhan who studied from DTEA, Mandir Marg and went on to become a doctor....
    My dad thoroughly enjoyed your article too and added several other facts & anecdotes.
    Best wishes
    Ramani

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  36. Gd morning. Read the narrative about "madrassis". Well composed.. As one who has been living in Delhi since early 1954, would like to add a few unmissable spots of repute then. First comes to mind was the Punjab Uni evening camp college located close to Gole Market on Mandir marg(Read ing Road). It was started to benefit the refugees settled in Delhi. Many madrassis(myself included) took advantage of this institution. There was then the famous "chittaranjan mess" located behind SI club on Mahadev road. The mess catered to needs of many madrassis. Rain or shine the mess' "dubba" would be at one's door. Another memorable event then was the screening of mainly Tamil movies at Regal Cinema in connaught place every Sunday morning. A pastime for Madrassis and families. Besides Madras hotel near Marina in C place, there was also the South Indian Hotel also in CP outer circle opposite present Shanker market. The hotelier also owned the famous Madras stores, first on Baird road near Gole market, then opening branches on Saraswati marg in K bagh and later in Yusaf Sarai. So much on my memory lane now.

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